Around twenty minutes past four, I looked up and saw a lama dressed in the traditional red over yellow coming down one of the paths that led up the mountain. He came over to me and asked if I had come to see the gompa. I said I had, but that it was locked, gesturing to the temple above me. "You come alone?" he asked. I said I had. "You must go up," he said, pointing to the top of the peak. "By what road?" I asked. "There," he said, pointing to the path he had just left. "Come, I show you." Turning, he led the way up the mountain, twisting and turning. I began puffing quite soon, as it was very steep, and he looked back at me halting. "I have trouble with the thin air," I said apologetically, patting my chest. He made a quieting gesture with one hand held down parallel to the ground, and I felt the power of his calming presence.
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